On the same night as the last photo (the one of the city from Nam San (South Mountain)) I also took a spin past Nam Dae Moon (South Great Gate), one of the oldest surviving vestiges of Seoul's long history. Construction of the gate (according to Wikipedia) was started in 1395, just one year after "Hanyang", later named Seoul, was offically named as the new capital of Choseon, the name for Korea at that time. The whole city was surrounded in those times by a strong stone wall, designed to protect dwellers from thieves and wild animals.The wildest thing about the area now is the traffic, situated as it is, at the intersection of 5 major city streets and several lanes and alleys. It is only a five minute walk from Seoul Station, City Hall, and the ancient Doksu Palace.It gave its name to the adjacent Namdaemoon Market, one of the largest traditional markets in Korea, a hagglers paradise of sorts (and the best place in the city to get camera lenses and eyeglasses). This gate and the rotary that carries traffic around it is at the heart of Seoul's old downtown and the "Gahng Buk" or "North of the River" area of Seoul.
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
Monday, October 30, 2006
City of Light
Sunday, October 29, 2006
What Is It?
Anyone able to guess what this is and where in Seoul it can be found?
The winner gets a free cup of bondaegi. MMM.
Saturday, October 28, 2006
A Little Melo With Your Drama?
Check out this clip from the comedy show Mad TV which captures the incredible expressiveness of a few short words in the Korean language and the depth of emotion
portrayed in Korean tv drama. www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRvzv3Sc8do
Mystery Veg
Shopping in a place like Laos offers all sorts of mysterious options. The vegetables below are new to me. If anyone has any idea what they are, please enlighten us. The rounded purple one tastes bitter and is a little astringent, and is one of the ingredients in a tasty local dish in the Nong Khai provinceof Thailand. Spicy sausage is grilled and cut up into pieces and wrapped up with vegetables in a thin rice wrapper inside of local leaves and then topped with a sweet barbecue-like sauce. MMMM, 7 weeks to go before I am off to Thailand again.
Friday, October 27, 2006
Laos Journey (continued): Hot and Sour
Baskets of dried chilli and lime peel in the town market in Laos. Just as in Korea, the chilli, brought to Asia from South America by traders, is an essential flavouring element in almost every Southeast Asian meal.
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Tied to the Land
Traditional homes on Jeju Island are constructed of black volcanic stones, held together and sealed with a mixture of dried mud and straw. The roof is of thatch and is tied firmly into place to protect against the fierce winds that lash the island in just about every season. A friend, whose family lived in a thatched house such as this, told me that the job of thatching had to be performed yearly, with members of the family alll coming together to take part in the highly ritualized work. Needless to say, however, homes such as this one near the western end of the island are becoming rare as the population moves into the island's two major cities, where vast Seoul-style apartment complexes are altering (read:erasing) the landscape.
Monday, October 23, 2006
Fall in Seoul
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Beachside
Following in the same vein as last night's post, I wanted to show yet another of the quiet, natural places the Korean peninsula still has to offer. Although Busan is a huge city of over 5 million, Gwangalli Beach, near Haeundae, is a place you can go to unwind. On this day in November of last year, I was taking in the clean air and surf before partaking of some fresh seafood at a beachside restaurant.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Yangjay Stream
Intensely crowded though it is, Seoul has a surprising number of places to get away from the crowds. The city is filled with numerous streams, rivers, and mountains that are maintained as parks. It is possible to ride bicycle or walk along from one end of the capital to the other along countless kilometers of trails and walkways. 양제 천, or Yangje Stream, below, is one such place, only a ten-minute walk from my apartment in the Gangnam ward of Southern Seoul.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
KIS - Where I Work
Sorry about the formatting here folks. I will fix it when I have time...
Well, as I thought, once I got back to work, it became increasingly difficult to find time to update my blog but I have a few minutes tonight so I thought I would post a few pics of where I work, the Korea International School in Bundang. This August, we moved into our new facility and it is a real pleasure to work in a building like this with such talented teachers and students.
Well, as I thought, once I got back to work, it became increasingly difficult to find time to update my blog but I have a few minutes tonight so I thought I would post a few pics of where I work, the Korea International School in Bundang. This August, we moved into our new facility and it is a real pleasure to work in a building like this with such talented teachers and students.
KIS has about 700 students currently in Grades kindergarten to 12. The school uses an American college-preparatory curriculum. The campus is located outside of Seoul in the suburban city of Bundang.
Thursday, October 12, 2006
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Saturday, October 07, 2006
Two of the World's Three Best Nephews-And Nieces Too!
Well, it seems that I have raised a few hackles by publishing a picture of myself with one niece and one nephew: the others were left out so...this is for all of y'all...
The above is Canada Day, 2006 in Kingston with Devin, the budding flyboy, and Conor, the gamer-genius, my sister's boys. Above, from left, Phil, oldest brother and god (small "g") in his own right, Dad, Jessica, Stephanie (whose 8th Grade Grad it was that day), Mom, and a horribly coiffed moi at the homestead in Orangeville.
To MJ, Louise, Dale, Bill, and all other beloved, you shall have your day.
Chu'seok: Heaven and Hell
I can't get enough of this blogging business. With this week off, I am posting like a madman but will likely find it hard to keep it up once classes start again on Monday.
Anyway, after five heavenly days down on Jeju Island, I was dreading my return to the capital only to find - CALM. Chu'seok, the harvest festival, you see, is one of two huge holiday festivals in Korea (the other being Lunar New Year), akin to our Christmas, when almost every Korean feels compelled to return to their hometowns to reconnect with family and friends.
How very lovely, you say? Well, except that the holiday involves, for most, a lot more stress than joyous familial frolic. First off, being with the family involves making train or flight reservations months in advance or having to face up to 20 hours on the roads in an endless traffic jam. This holiday season, some 39 million people were on the move in-country, with another 300,000 estimated to be traveling overseas. Then, once you have arrived, the lady of the family is expected to log countless hours preparing festive traditional rice cakes (song-pyun) and any number of other delicacies for the men, who generally sit with the elder men and get profusely plastered, in keeping with tradition. For those unfortunate enough to be unmarried by 25, there are the inevitable questions about marriage and the ticking of the biological clock.Anyway, with all of those good sons and daughters battling the expressways in Cholla, Kyongsang, Kangwon and Choongchun provinces yesterday and today, I arrived back in Seoul to find clear, pollution-free skies, empty roads, and NOTHING to eat in the neighborhood, what with all the shops and restaurants closed.
There is NO better time to see Seoul than Chu-seok. A trip across the city that would take who knows how long in normal traffic took minutes. Lets hope the charms of the countryside keep a few million people from coming back to the city.
But alas, I fear it is not to be. The crowds of pedestrians bearing designer suitcases and fruit baskets in the 'hood tonight and a quick trip out to the Kyungbu Expressway this evening revealed that the hordes are making their return.
Seoul: Then and Now (Part 1)
Okay, for those of us from small towns in the West, Seoul can be overwhelming: the traffic, the density, the crowds, the smog. But it wasn't always this way. South Korea was, until the big industrialization drive under Park, Chung Hee, mostly rural and agricultural. In 1948, the country's population was 14.5% rural. By 2000, it was estimated to have reached 78% urban. Seoul's population in 1955 was 1.575 million. By 1960 it was 2.4 million. It is now between 11 and 12 million with over 19 million in the metro area.
The first photo here is from 1959. It shows the Yongsan U.S. Army Garrison looking south over the Han River to Kwanak Mountain.
The second photo was taken today, and shows a similar view, albeit from a bit further away and to the West (they wouldn't let me on the Yongsan base to take photos - GO FIGURE!) but shows essentially the same thing. Those lush green fields to the south are long gone. The area south of the river, all farmland in 1960, is now home to some 7 million people and the dense development stretches well beyond the furthest of those mountains in the background. One notable thing is missing in the second picture - clean air. And today wasn't even really a bad pollution day. At least you can see the mountains.
Incidentally, the Korean and American governments have reached an agreement that will see the Yongsan base returned to Korean ownership by 2008. After some 150 years in foreign hands (first the Chinese, then the Japanese, then the Americans) this piece of prime real estate in the center of the city will once again be all-Korean. The city has ambitious plans to convert the area into a magnificent Central Park-like oasis. Yeah right. I give them a few months with this juicy parcel of land and the condos and malls will be sprouting like shrooms on a golf course.
Friday, October 06, 2006
Moonfroth
Sunburst
Was Praying for Snakes But . . .
I am in Jeju this week and went looking for snakes to photograph a couple of days ago. The snakes proved elusive but I did get this shot of a praying mantis.
Baby Brountas
My good friend Nik and his Jejunian (?the proper adjective?) wife Hyun Ju have a lovely 5-month-old daughter, Erin, or 에린, and I have appointed myself honorary uncle, with full rights to visits and occasional short-term kidnappings. I wonder if what they say about babies helping you score with potential romantic interests is true. If it is, with a cutie like this I'll have dates for months . . .
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